* LIST OF CONTENTS *
Before you choose a great dane, Common health problems, Vaccination guidelines, Parvovirus and symptoms, Health and welfare, Heart worm disease, Hook worms, Round worms, Whip worms, Coccidia, Giardia Protozoa, A true puppy mill, Ear cropping info, Taping natural ears down, Bloat and Torsion, Nzymes OxE-Drops, Nzymes Granules, Nzymes Bac-Pak Plus, First Choice Naturals Colostrum.
Before You Choose A Great Dane
The purpose of this information, prepared by the Health and Welfare Committee of the Great Dane Club of America, Inc. is to educate the public about the responsibility involved in owning a Great Dane and the many issues they should consider before purchasing a Dane puppy or adult. Our many breeder-members would like to know that when someone decides to own a Great Dane, that this dog, whether a puppy or an older dog, will have a permanent, loving home. We want to do all we can to make sure that prospective new owners understand the characteristics of the breed and are willing to make a commitment to provide a suitable environment and proper training which will make the Great Dane a healthy and well-behaved member of the family. All too often people make hasty decisions and are ill-prepared to deal with the size and sometimes rambunctious and destructive behavior of an adolescent Great Dane. Unwanted Great Danes are then turned over to rescue organizations or animal shelters, or worse yet, are abandoned to wander the streets. The fate of most of the animals, through no fault of their own, is death. Reputable breeders take the responsibility to educate new owners so that when they send puppies to their new homes, the experience will be good for both the puppies and the new owners. However, the new owners must share in this responsibility.
As a prospective new owner, we urge you to take time to learn about the Great Dane through books, magazines, and affiliated Great Dane clubs throughout the country. These clubs are made up of members familiar with the breed, and they are excellent sources of information. The GDCA's website, is a great place to start.
The Great Dane was developed primarily in Germany and England out of mastiff-type and Greyhound stock. The principal purpose of the breed in early years was to hunt wild boar. At that time, ears were cropped to prevent the boar's long, sharp tusks from shredding the Dane's ear during the hunt. However, the Great Dane as we know it today was developed in Europe during the 1800's and declared the national breed of Germany in 1876. As a boarhound, the Dane of yesterday was very different both in structure and temperament from the Dane of today. When no longer used for hunting, the breed changed to one of a companion and estate dog.
The Great Dane body should be as long as it is tall, with substantial bone, a long tail, a relatively long neck, a rectangular head, and a definite stop. Most books on the Great Dane have excellent illustrations which depict Danes of various colors and sexes. Adult male Great Danes generally measure about 33" to 36" at the shoulder and weigh about 140 to 175 pounds. Females are smaller, about 31" to 33" and about 110 to 140 pounds. Full height is usually reached at 12 to 15 months of age, but a Great Dane is not fully mature until about three years old. Ears can be cropped or uncropped. If uncropped, the ears should lie against the sides of the head and have a slight rise at the ear where it meets the base of the skull. Cropped ears should be carried erect and should complement the rectangular appearance of the head. Danes come in six recognized colors:
FAWN: (tan with black mask)
BRINDLE: (tan with black stripes)
BLACK: (solid black)
BLUE: (steel blue)
HARLEQUIN: (white base coat with evenly distributed torn black patches)
MANTLE: (black head and body, with white on the muzzle, collar, chest, feet/legs, and a white-tipped tail).
Danes with colors or markings besides these six may be registered with the AKC, but they cannot be shown and generally speaking should not be bred. Regardless of color, all can make fine family pets.
Great Danes make wonderful family pets for a household which wants a large, affectionate short-haired breed who will offer a measure of protection. They are a very people-oriented breed and need to be a part of the family. Great Danes do not do well in kennel situations or where they are exclusively outdoor dogs. They need and crave human companionship. Their coat is not sufficient to keep them warm in the winter, so they must be kept indoors in colder climates.
Great Danes are loving, easy to housebreak, simple to groom, and of average intelligence. Proper early training and socialization are very important. Puppy kindergarten classes are recommended, beginning at about three to six months of age. These classes should be followed with a basic obedience class. Although Great Danes who have been raised with children are usually very gentle, they are much larger than a small child. Because accidental injuries can occur, even with very well mannered Great Danes; small children should never be left unattended with your puppy or dog. If there are children in the household, they must be taught the correct way to interact with a puppy and parents need to monitor correct behavior on the part of the child and the puppy.
The household considering a Dane should have a secure enclosure and preferably a large, fenced yard. Chaining, staking out, tying or allowing your Dane to roam free are dangerous and unacceptable practices.
Most Danes are not jumpers, so a six-foot fence is sufficient. Many growing puppies are highly destructive to landscaping, so if a beautifully landscaped yard is a priority for you, perhaps you should reconsider getting a Great Dane!
Inside the house, a crate, properly used, will help assist in housebreaking a young puppy and prevent major destruction from a chewing adolescent. To prevent problems, young Danes should not be allowed free run of the house until they have proven themselves to be trustworthy. A Dane on a chewing spree can easily ruin beds, carpeting and furniture.
Danes should never be encouraged to be overly protective or aggressive. Their large size is sufficient to scare off most intruders. Their natural tendency is to protect if needed. It is the responsibility of the Dane owner to socialize his Dane properly so the dog can learn good judgment.
Owners of Great Danes should recognize that some people are very frightened of large dogs. Therefore, Dane owners need to always act in a responsible manner, keeping their Danes leashed and under control when in public places and confined within fenced yards when at home.
Compared to other breeds, Great Danes can be expensive to maintain. Providing proper food, veterinary care, supplies, training classes, and a fenced yard can quickly add up. Everything is "more" with a Dane because of its size.
The most negative aspect of the breed is a short life span, typically about 7 to 10 years. Great Danes are predisposed to certain health problems such as gastric torsion (bloat), certain types of cancer, and heart problems. Puppies and young adults can develop certain growing or bone problems which are sometimes associated with an improper diet, often a diet too high in protein, calcium or supplements. Occasionally, Great Danes can be aggressive with livestock or may not get along with other animals in the household. Older adult males can be prone to prostate infections and adult bitches to false pregnancies and uterine infections. Spaying or neutering pets is a good idea for the health of the dog and is required by most ethical breeders.
We offer the preceding basic information as a brief introduction to help you decide if the Great Dane is the right breed for you. The Great Dane Club of America's web site provides additional information, including our Code of Ethics, the AKC standard for the Great Dane, Affiliate Club listings, breeder referral, rescue groups, and updated health information which you may find very helpful. We are also in the process of planning a booklet to help people choose the right Great Dane for them, so please check back to our website for additional offerings.
Provided by Great Dane Club Of America
Common Health Problems
Puppy Vaginitis, Puppy Bladder Infections, Demodectic MangePlease be advised that the dip that is commonly used is Mitaban , This dip is dangerous to all dogs but mostly Great Danes . Linda A the Great Dane Lady has a topic on Demodectic Mange and how to treat it at her website .
I have heard about a Guarantee Mange Cure from Stan at the Nzymes Company . This products is safe for you and more importantly your pet . It is all natural .
This sulfinex cream, mitaction spray and body wash is wonderful for all kinds of problems from flea bit dermatitis, rashes to mange !
Canine Vaccination Guidelines
The duration of immunity for vaccines for diseases like rabies, distemper, and parvovirus have been shown to be 7 years. More importantly it has been scientifically proven that, after the initial series, when vaccines are re-administered the immune status of the patient is not enhanced. Antibodies from the initial vaccine block the subsequent vaccines from having any effect.
Although the true interval at which re-administration of Rabies, Distemper, Parvovirus, Adenovirus and Para influenza vaccinations will enhance the immunity in a significant number of dogs has not been determined, an arbitrary compromise interval of every three years has been agreed upon by the American Animal Hospital Association, the American Association of Feline Practitioners, and 22 Schools of Veterinary Medicine. It is the consensus of immunologists and experts that the duration of immunity is much longer and probably the life of the patient. This three-year compromise interval will greatly reduce the number of antigens administered, and therefore the risk of adverse reactions, while providing the most complete protection against preventable diseases possible.
These are the recommendations of Bob Rogers DVM based on
Peer Reviewed Journal Publications (References)
The American Association of Feline Practitioners
The American Veterinary Medical Association
Council on Biologic and Therapeutic Agents
Texas A&M University
Colorado State University
Cornell University
The American Animal Hospital Association
Vaccination Schedule:
Core vaccines – recommended for all dogs
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Vaccine
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Initial
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>12 Weeks
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1st Annual
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Re- Administration Interval |
Comments
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| Rabies (killed) |
16 weeks | One vaccination |
1 yr after the initial vaccination
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Every 3 years. | Due to age & maternal antibodies, closer to 4 months is better | |
| Distemper (MLV) |
8 weeks 12 weeks 16 weeks |
2 doses 3-4 weeks apart | Yes. Will provide lifetime immunity. |
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Recombinant vaccine for breeds like Weimaraners may prevent HOD
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| Parvovirus (MLV |
8 weeks 12 weeks 16 weeks |
2 doses 3-4 weeks apart |
Yes – DOI 7 yrs+ Probably lifetime
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None needed. Duration of immunity 7.5 years by studies. Probably lifetime. Longer studies pending. |
At 6 weeks of age, only 30% of puppies are protected but 100% are exposed to the virus at the vet clinic. |
| Non-Core | Only recommended where there is a chance of exposure |
| Bordetella (Intranasal) (killed) |
Intra Nasal 4 days prior to boarding Inj. 3 weeks prior to Boarding Inj followed by Intra Nasal demonstrated better protection |
Mfg recommends one dose |
Yes Immune response is faster with boosters
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Annually (Para influenza every 3 years?)
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Para influenza only protects against 1 of 8+ causes of Kennel Cough Bordetella
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| Intranasal Bordetella takes effect in 72 hrs to take effect vs. injectable requires 2 weeks to take effect. Recommended 3 days prior to boarding, grooming & dog shows. Protects against 2 of the possible 8 causes of kennel cough. Duration of immunity 6 months. | |||||
| Leptospirosis | 1.) There are an average of 12 cases of Lepto annually in Texas. 2.) Side effects are common. 3.) The most commonly used vaccine contains the wrong serovars. (There is no cross-protection of serovars) There is a new vaccine with 2 new serovars. Two vaccinations twice per year would be required for protection.) 4.) The risk of side effects outweighs benefits. | ||||
| Lyme | 1.) Vector tick/reservoir relationship not in Texas 2.) 85% of cases are in 9 New England area States, Minnesota and Wisconsin. 3.) There is a possible side effect of polyarthritis from the vaccine. | ||||
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Vaccines Not Recommended For Dogs | ||||||||||
| Distemper & Parvo @ 6 weeks or younger | Not recommended. At this age, maternal antibodies form the mothers milk (colostrum) will neutralize the vaccine and only 30% for puppies will be protected. 100% will be exposed to the virus at the vet clinic. | |||||||||
| Corona | Not recommended. 1. Disease only affects dogs < 8 weeks of age. 2. Corona is a rare disease, only 1 case reported in 7 yrs at each of these Vet Schools: TAMU, Cornell, Colo.St., U.Cal.@ Davis 3. Efficacy of vaccine questionable, IgA Mucosal antibodies needed | |||||||||
| Giardia | Not recommended 1. Efficacy of Vaccine unsubstantiated by independent studies. 2. IgA mucosal antibodies? Immunity against a complex organism? 3. Natural infection does not provide immunity. | |||||||||
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Protect Your Dog From the Deadly Parvovirus
Since there are many facets of this disease in which varying experts have had varied experience, the best way to handle this disease is by prevention.
First of all, what dogs are at risk for parvo? Parvovirus likes to attack rapidly dividing cells, and in a puppy, the highest concentration of these is in the intestines. The virus eats away at the lining of the intestines; most puppies with parvo die of dehydration before they actually die from organ failure associated with the virus. Many believe adult dogs cannot get the virus, but this is not true. Certainly adult dogs have more mature immune systems and are at far less risk, but the bottom line is, they still can get this disease, which means taking precautions.
Besides attacking the intestinal lining, Parvo can also damage the heart of very young pups, and unborn pups. So if your dog is pregnant, those pups are at risk, even before birth. You'll need to remove a pregnant dog from an environment you know to be infected.
1. Parvo is spread by exposure to feces, even in trace amounts. To prevent illness, keep stools cleaned out of your yard and home, and keep your yard watered. Parvo has been known to last over a year, because it is resistant to temperature changes and is hardy-it can live outside a dog's body for long periods. If your yard has been infected, you'll not want to keep puppies there for at least a year (bad news for breeders, but certainly better than watching your beloved pups die), and you can bleach your yard with a solution of half a cup of chlorine bleach to a gallon of water. It will kill the grass, but better that than your pups!
2. Do not allow your dogs near the waste of other animals in your yard or to eat rodents (rodents can carry the disease), and keep your dogs away from waste at parks and each other's rear ends, as parvovirus is extremely contagious. It might not be a bad idea to wash your dog's feet before it gets in your car. Keeping liquid soap, a gallon of water, a washcloth, and a plastic bag in your car may help; just make sure you remember to bleach the rag and anything it touched when you get home. You can even bring the virus home on your car tires. So you can't bleach everything, but the more protection you offer, the less likely your dog will be infected.
We can all help prevent the spread of the disease by picking up after our own dogs, infected or not, at parks and other public places. This is important even if your dog shows no signs of any disease, because a healthy dog can still be a carrier. Then the next dog steps in the waste, and that pup may end up fighting for its life.
3. If your dog has been exposed or has brought the virus home, bleach your house with a solution of half a cup of bleach to a gallon of water. It is cheap and effective at this level, but may discolor carpeting and upholstery. Use on food and water bowls, flooring, cabinets, counter tops where your dog may have rested its feet while looking for goodies...anywhere your dog has been. Garage floor, inside your car...everywhere. (It's best to wear gloves because bleach isn't particularly good for you, either, if absorbed through the skin. Also it's best to keep the windows open so the fumes can get out.) Remember, it's not just where your dog has been, but your feet are tracking it around, too.
If you're looking for a solution other than bleach, KennelSol may be of use to you. Whatever you choose, please check manufacturer's labels for information about domestic use. KennelSol is broad spectrum (killing a variety of viruses and bacteria specific to animals) and is safe to use around pets and kids, but not suitable for every application.
It's also important to disinfect your clothes and shoes (use bleach or a professional veterinary laundry detergent in your wash). This is also very important if you've been in an environment that you suspect may have the virus, such as a kennel or vet's office. Remove your shoes before you come inside your home and disinfect them.
4. Dogs that are spayed or neutered are less likely to contract the virus because they are less likely to roam or seek contact with other dogs.
5. Keep your dogs supplied with ample fresh water at all times. Proper hydration is crucial to maintaining a healthy immune system and fighting illness.
6. Other diseases can be prevented by keeping your dog from drinking out of the toilet.
7. A word on vaccines. There is no question that getting your dog vaccinated can help prevent parvo and other diseases. It is not failsafe, however. A puppy's immunities from the mother probably will not be enough to prevent the disease, but those immunities are enough to interfere with the vaccinations. So booster shots, should you choose to use this route, need to be maintained. There is also evidence, however, that over vaccination, i.e. yearly vaccinations, can also have serious health implications, varying from immune problems to arthritis, cancer and beyond. So what's the right decision? It's entirely personal-only you can decide what is right for your dog. Whatever route you choose, the best decision is always an informed one. I usually seek the advice of my vet, but then I do my own reading online and in professional veterinary journals, especially holistic ones, to make a decision about what's right for my furry friends.
In case you're worried about catching parvo, you can relax: the canine variety is not associated with humans. While there is a human strain, it's not the same, and even the symptoms are different. (The human variety causes a rash.)
For more info on this please visit -
Symptoms of Parvovirus
There is a broad range in the severity of symptoms shown by dogs that are infected with parvovirus. Many adult dogs exposed to the virus show very few if any symptoms. The majority of cases are seen in dogs less than 6 months of age, with the most severe cases seen in puppies younger than 12 weeks of age. There are also significant differences in response to CPV-2 infections and vaccines among different breeds of dogs, with Rottweilers, Doberman Pinschers, and Labrador Retrievers being more susceptible than other breeds.
The most common form of the disease is the intestinal form known as enteritis. CPV-2 enteritis is characterized by vomiting (often severe), diarrhea, dehydration, dark or bloody feces, and in severe cases, fever and lowered white blood cell counts. Acute CPV-2 enteritis can be seen in dogs of any breed, sex, or age. The disease will progress very rapidly and death can occur as early as two days after the onset of the disease. The presence of gram negative bacteria, parasites, or other viruses can worsen the severity of the disease and slow recovery.
NOTE : Do NOT use ProHeart 6 - which is a 6 months heartworm shot. It is killing dogs.
I do not give Rabies until 6 months or later due to the fragility of the immune system. When I do this, I may be breaking the law. If you are not comfortable with this idea, then there are options you have that can help prevent vaccine reactions in your dog/cats.
1) Do not let the vet give a rabies shot at the same time as any other shot. You must be insistent about this and hold your ground. If there are other shots due at the same time, then make two trips to the vet - space them at least a week apart.
2) Make sure your dog is on Nzymes - dietary enzymes before/during and after vaccines, so the body is detoxified.
Health and Welfare
Inherited and other health concerns in the Great Dane
The following health conditions have been identified in the Great Dane. Items so marked (
) can be identified through testing. Screening tests are not currently available for the other conditions listed. Conditions thought to involve significant & direct inheritance are noted. For those purchasing a pet or intending to breed: it is important to know the health status before breeding any dog or bitch. Clinically affected dogs, i.e., those dogs exhibiting symptoms for conditions considered serious and heritable should generally NOT be bred and health screenings (where available) are certainly recommend. Please note that the text below is intended as an aid to those seeking health information on the breed, and should not be used to form a diagnosis replacing regular veterinary care by a qualified veterinarian.
DCM: CARDIOMYOPATHY - is suspected to be an inherited disease in the Great Dane and current (preliminary) research indicates that this disease may be sex-linked in our breed. Research is ongoing. An echocardiogram of the heart will confirm the disease but will not guarantee that the disease will not develop in the future. Regular exams on breeding stock are recommended. There are some congenital heart defects also occasionally found in the breed. For an in-depth article on the subject, see "Heart Disease in the Great Dane."
K9HD: HIP DYSPLASIA - is an inherited disease with multi-factorial expression. Clinically the disease may be seen as simply poor rear end conformation or lessened athleticism to such malformation of the hip joint that the dog becomes crippled. It is recommend that breeding stock be Xrayed as normal. OFA and PennHIP both offer certification programs.
See OFA and PennHIP.
Since the hip grading is based on a phenotypic evaluation (not actual
genes) breeders probably cannot completely eliminate hip dysplasia from
a line. However, the proper use of hip grades in making breeding
decision can greatly reduce the prevalence of hip dysplasia in a line.
Thank you for your inquiry.
G.G. Keller, D.V.M., MS
Diplomate ACVR
Chief of Veterinary Services
Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
HYPOTHYROIDISM - in dogs is generally the result of a heritable disorder of the immune system. This condition results when the thyroid gland is not producing enough hormone to adequately maintain the dog's metabolism. Happily, it is easily treated with thyroid replacement pills. Thyroid testing (T4, TSH and autoantibodies) on breeding stock should be performed on a routine basis. Finding autoantibodies to thyroglobulin is normally an indication that the dog has autoimmune thyroiditis. Low thyroid dogs, manifested by a high TSH and a low T4, should be treated and monitored on a regular basis. Dogs with confirmed thyroid abnormalities should not be bred. See the Hypothyroidism update article.
CATARACTS - although not common, cataracts have been described in the Great Dane and can be blinding. Eyelid abnormalies (e.g. entropion) are also not unheard of in the breed. For breeding stock a CERF exam can insure that the eyes are normal in all aspects. See CERF data for the breed.
GDV: Bloat - is the number one killer of Great Danes & Great Danes are the #1 breed at risk for bloat. For reasons not fully understood, in certain deep-chested breeds in particular, the stomach distends, then has a tendency to rotate, which cuts off the blood supply to various parts of the body, as well as effectively shutting down digestion. This condition is extremely painful as well as a true emergency that is rapidly life-threatening. A dog with a bloated, twisted stomach (technically called "Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus") will die in great pain in a matter of hours unless drastic steps are taken: surgery is normally necessary. The reasons for GDV are currently not understood, however most would agree that multiple small meals per day and preventing vigorous exercise around mealtimes can help reduce the chances of bloat. Many breeders and owners of Great Danes consider a surgery called a prophylactic gastropexy ("preventative tack") which can help prevent some of the more serious aspects of GDV. Discuss this with your veterinarian and your Dane's breeder.
CANCER: Danes can suffer from a variety of cancers as do many other breeds of dogs as well as many mixed breed dogs. Bone cancer (osteosarcoma) and lymphoma appear to be the two forms of cancer most commonly seen in the Great Dane, and along with heart disease and bloat (GDV), cancer is a leading cause of death in Great Danes. Research into both types of cancer is ongoing and treatment options are improving every day. See The Genetics of Cancer
CVI: Wobblers - is a result of pressure on the spinal cord in the neck region and results in a "drunken" gait & increasing instability. It it thought to result from a combination of nutritional effects and inherited traits and is considered a form of DOD (Developmental Osteodystrophy) along with such as OCD. Great Danes are considered at risk for Wobblers. CVI stands for Cervical Vertebral Instability.
HOD and Pano - these are painful conditions of the bones that occur during the rapid growth phase of puppyhood causing lameness and general malaise. By far HOD is the more serious one and can be deadly. Pano is usually self-limiting and may not need treatment. HOD stands for Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Pano is short for Panosteitis.
Provided by Great Dane Club Of America :
HEARTWORM DISEASE
Heart worm disease, caused by a parasite Dirofilaria Immitis, is now found in all 50 states. According to the American HeartWorm Society, most cases of heartworm disease are found in the hot, humid areas of the southeast. There are, however, high incidences of heartworm disease in pockets of Minnesots, Oklahoma, California, and many other states. Additionally, heartworm is not just and american problem - heartworm infections happen worldwide.
HEARTWORM LIFECYCLE
Heartworm is transmitted between animals by many species of Mosquitoes. The transmission occurs when a mosquito takes a blood meal from an infected animal and then feeds on another animal. Heartworm infection can involve both dogs and cats, but the infection occurs differently in each species.
IN DOGS, the immature larval stage of the worm is deposited into the dog's skin by an infected mosquito. These larvae enter the dog's skin through the bite wound of the mosquito. Then in about 2 months the juvenile worms migrate through the bloodstream to the right side of the heart. There they grow into adult worms ( some can grow up to 12 inches in length ! ). The female then begins to produce offspring, called Microfilariae. She may produce as many as 1000 of these offspring. These Microfilariae grow to be about 1/2" to 3/4" in length and are fed by the blood of the infected animal. This process takes about 6 months. As they grow, the heartworms lodge in the heart and the large blood vessels going from the heart to the lungs. Adult worms can live up to 7 years in the dogs body. If untreated, dogs usually die of heart failure.
IN CATS, heartworm disease is different then in dogs on many levels. For instance, heartworms are smaller in cats then in dogs and it takes about 1 month longer for the larvae to develop into adults in the heart. Additionally, the lungs are the major organ affected in the cats and it only takes a small number of worms to cause disease. According to the American Heartworm Society, the lifespan of the heartworm is shorter in cats than in dogs. Remember that the vector for heartworm disease, the mosquito, does not bite exclusively outside the house. Indoor-only cats are effected by this disease, as well.
SIGNS OF HEARTWORM DISEASE
IN DOGS, the first outward signs of the heartworm disease may not be apparent until a year after infection and may begin simply as a soft cough. the severity of this disease depends on the number of heartworms present. As the disease progresses, the infected pet will find it more difficult to breath. He will be reluctant to exercise, and he may have a decreased appetite and weight loss.
IN CATS, have clinical signs that mimic many other diseases. these include difficult or rapid breathing, coughing, vomiting, fainting, seizures, blindness, loss of appetite and weight loss. Heartworm is more difficult to diagnose in cats than in dogs.
Note : Here at Tribledanes all of our dogs are on Interceptor and tested regularly. We use Interceptor because it is much better and safer for Great Danes. For flea, tick treatment and preventive we use Advantage and Frontline.
HOOK WORMS
Hookworms are one of the most common intestinal parasites of dogs and cats ( especially puppies and kittens ), and can cause life-threatening disease, like sever anemia, and serious diarrhea.
How does my dog get hookworms ? there are 3 ways and animal may become infected :
1.) THROUGH THE SKIN: Larvae entering through the skin migrate through the bloodstream to the lings and trachea, and are coughed up and swallowed. They attach themselves to the intestinal wall and consume the dogs blood from the tiny vessels of the wall. thus completing the life cycle.
2.) THROUGH INGESTION: Larvae may be ingested through contaminated food or water, from moist surfaces, or from prey animals. Most larvae that are ingested usually pass down to the intestine, where they remain. A few, however may migrate through the body and ultimately to the trachea where they are coughed up and swallowed. Some larvae will stop their migration midway and encyst in muscle.
3.) THROUGH THE UTERUS OR MILK: Larvae that encyst in the muscle can subsequently migrate to the uterus of a pregnant animal and infect the fetuses. they can also migrate to the mammary glands of a lactating female and infect the nursing young.
SYMPTOMS OF HOOKWORMS
By feeding on the oxygen-carrying blood of the host, hookworms can rapidly cause anemia. the mucous membranes, e.g. gums, will appear pale, the animal will become weak, and sometimes black, tarry stool can be seen. Growth in young animals is stunted, and the hair coat may appear dull and dry.
DIAGNOSIS
Diagnosis is made by finding the eggs in the feces. In very young animals sever disease may be present before the adult worms have started to lay eggs. Diagnosis must then be made by evaluating the signs of disease.
TREATMENT
Treatment consists of using the appropriate wormers. Certain prescription heartworm preventives will also kill hookworms. Many times supportive care must be given along with hookworm treatment. In server cases, blood transfusions may be necessary.
ROUNDWORMS
(Toxocara canis, Toxascaris leonina) are the most common type of worm to infect the animal kingdom. These worms are usually 2 – 4 inches long, tan or white “spaghetti-like” creatures with tapered ends. If a roundworm burden is heavy, a dog may vomit these worms or pass them (whole) in the stool. Roundworms can cause vomiting and diarrhea and can have an effect on a dog’s overall general health and appearance. Puppies infected with roundworms will have a “potbellied” (bloated) look to them. Roundworms can become so numerous that they can cause an intestinal blockage and stool cannot pass. As mentioned above, roundworms are zoonotic (can be transferred to humans) and can cause an infection known as “Visceral Larva Migrans”, which may result in possible inflammation of muscle tissue and blindness. Anthelmintics (dewormers) that are frequently used to treat roundworms are pyrantel pamoate, fenbendazole and piperazine.
WHIPWORMS
Whipworms are common in dogs and found throughout the United States. Whipworms get their name from the Whip- like shape of the adult worms. The front portion of the worm is very thin ( the whip ) and the posterior end is think ( whip handle ). Whipworms live in the large intestine and cecum. they are 2-3 inches long, but are very thin, and rarely seen in the feces.
HOW DOES MY PET GET WHIPWORMS ?
A dog or cat becomes infected by ingesting food or water contaminated with whipworm eggs. The eggs are swallowed, hatched, and in three months, the larvae mature into adults in the large intestine where they burrow their mouths into the intestinal wall and feed on blood. Adult worms lay eggs that are passed in the feces. The eggs must remain in the soil for about a month to mature and be capable of causing infection.
DIAGNOSIS
An infection is diagnosis by a veterinarian finding eggs in the feces. The signs of infection vary with the number of worms in the intestine. A small number of worms will cause no visible signs, but large numbers can result in inflammation of the intestinal wall. Large amounts of mucus are produced by the inflamed intestine. Sometimes bleeding into the intestines occurs, and anemia can result. Animals may have diarrhea and weight loss.
COCCIDIA
coccidia are small protozoans ( one celled organisms ) that multiply in the intestinal tracts of dogs and cats. They are most common in puppies and kittens less then six months of age or adults that are stressed or have suppressed immune systems.
Young animals are frequently exposed to their mothers feces. If the mother is shedding the infective organisms in her feces, then the young animals will likely ingest them and coccidia will develop with in their intestines. Most young animals who are ill from coccidia are two weeks of age and older. As a young animal ages, he tends to develop a natural immunity to the effects of coccidia.
The primary sign of an animal suffering from coccidiosis is diarrhea. The diarrhea may be mild to server depending on the level of infection. Blood and mucous may be present. Severely affected animals may also vomit, lose their appetite, become dehydrated or worse.
Fortunately, coccidiosis is treatable with prescription drugs. Because these drugs do not kill the organisms, but rather inhabit their reproduction capabilities, elimination of coccidia from the intestine takes time. By stopping the ability of the protozoa to reproduce, time is allowed for the animals own immunity to develop and remove the organisms. To give your pets digestive tract a boost while being treated, try Acidophilus+ or Bac-pac plus or Bene-Bac pet gel.
True Puppy-Mill / Back Yard Breeders!
I found this at the Great Dane Club of Americas website. This is for those of you out there that would like to see what a true puppy-mill / back yard breeder looks like. Please note that what you will see is not pleasant and is heart breaking.
Ear Cropping Info
We do not offer ear cropping , if you wish for your new baby to have his/her ears cropped they will have to be done when they go to their new home. We ask that if you chose to crop your new babies ears to please research your vets and pick a few to interview , ask to see photos. Great Dane ears are supposed to stand straight up even the tips , A true Dane ear crop is show length. We also ask that you use the Great Dane Lady's Ear taping method or the Quick Brace System. It is better for them, im becoming a fan of the Quick Brace and most of my buyers use it with great success. Ears can be cropped between 7 weeks and 10 week with regular ear cropping surgery and no latter then 12 weeks with the laser ear cropping surgery , please keep in mind that all vets are different and have their own time line on when to crop so you need to speak with the vet in advance Most vets in the state of Texas will not crop ears until 13 weeks of age, do to the ear cropping being done at this age the vet is forced to do a breeders crop or commonly known as a pet crop. To give you an idea on what that would look like, it is that short pit bull looking ear crop. That is not a true Great Dane ear crop. Please locate a vet that will crop at 9 weeks and do the show crop with the straight outer edge and formed bell. Most vets use an ear cropping template ( will give that Bat ear look with a wide middle ). We do not guarantee on when your puppy will be shipped , there are airline regulation and unforeseen things that can happen so therefore we can not Guarantee that you will receive your new baby in time for ear cropping . You need to really think about this before considering a Tribledanes Baby . Is ear cropping really that important ? and can you live you a natural eared Dane ?
Linda Arndt ~ Canine Nutritional Consultant also known as " The Great Dane Lady "
How to tape ears link !
Anesthesia guidelines link !
This method is very easy for first time Croppers . Just make sure you order all the supplies well in advance before you crop your baby .
Everyone has a different method of ear taping and there is nothing wrong with that , you just have to find the one that works best for you and your dog. Linda's worked great for us and that is what we recommend to our puppy buyers .
EAR TAPING LINK and SUPPLIES
Taping Natural Ears
There are times when you just have to deal with a natural ear that just will not lay right at all. Ive been told that doing anything to puppies ears before 4 months of age is a waste of time and money. They say that the cartilage doesn't start growing up the ears until the pups are about 5 months old and keeps growing until they're nearly a year old. They say that the ears should be taped down from 4 months until 12 months. That way as the cartilage grows, it will form to the curve of the taped ear. So wait until the puppy is 4 months old to start taping.
There are 3 methods that I have seen that look like they will work, One is done on a Great Dane and one is done on a Boxer. Both breeds have the same natural ear.
The tape to use is medical tape ( preferable Zono's Porous Tape ) or Elastikon.
DO NOT for any reason use any other kind of tape like Electrical tape, duck tape etc as this can cause the ear to become infected and even rot off.
1.) You will need scissors and tape.
The tape to use is Zono's Porous tape or Elastikon -- you can purchase from your vet or a medical supply store. One strip of tape is attached to the underside of one ear w/sticky side facing towards the outside of the ear. Then pull tape down under the chin and attach to the underside of the other ear. Next attach the other piece of tape (with ears in the middle " sticky side to sticky side " ) - to the first piece of tape this will make a sandwich. Make sure it is a comfortable fit so that your dogs jaw can still open. Make sure he/she can move his jaw and is able to eat and drink. It is also important to make sure the tape is not to loose to where it will get caught in the jaw.
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